I WAS invited to a soft opening of a new restaurant at the Crimson Resort and Spa, a rather well-known resort in Mactan, one night under the stars. Every chance I get to eat outside the house, I try to look for good food, not necessarily haute cuisine but a variationof “luto sa balay,” ordinary and homegrown food.
On arrival I was greeted with platters of savory croquetas and pintxos topped with ham, roast beef and crabs, while drinks of wine and other cocktails flowed, as roaming waiters and waitresses were simultaneously serving.
Tasting my first bite of Croqueta Chorizo (Bechamel croquettes with chorizo) and Shrimp Gambas, I swear I could finish it all, but I gladly let the waiter go and so I could work on the next dish and the next—cautioning myself not to consume the whole ración, not even a media ración, but to make space, that is, for the full five-course menu that Jose Luis “Chele” Gonzalez has prepared for the evening.
Enye’s full menu is divided into two sections: Tra-di-cional and Mo-der-no. Most of the dishes grouped as Traditional, according to their menu, are meant to be shared among family and friends. Traditional classics we can relate to connect both Spanish and Filipino cuisines. Indeed, our food is connected through culture and history. Filipino food is a swift assemblage of gastronomic revolution in Spain in the last 30 to 40 years—cuisine that has evolved with additions of, according to Chef Chele, contemporary good Spanish food.
At exactly 7:30 p.m. guests were seated. I got my seat with two Japanese lady guests. I thought I would be able to reflect on the flavor of the food as I presumed we would not be talking, but much to my delight one of them spoke good English.
Finally, the first course was served. Carpaccio de Wagyu. As an appetizer, it was so mouthwatering that all four of us in the table wanted another serving. Thinly sliced (with Parmesan ice cream and pine nuts), truly it kind of melted away in my tongue.
The second course included Lechón Cebu Tacos (with mango salsa, jalapeno frijoles mousse and sour cream), which was listed first in its menu card followed by Gambas al Ajillo (shrimp sautéed in olive oil with garlic and chili), and Txangurro (roasted crab mousse in shell with toasted bread).
Looking at the list I thought these would be the heavyweight of food for tonight. Early on the staff spread a table for a demonstration of how to assemble lechon in a tortilla. Naturally in serving of the second course, I was excited to have the lechon taco on my table.
However the gambas and crabs in a shell which are famous in San Sebastian, and which reminds me of our sinudlan or rellenong lambay were served well ahead of the taco. The sweet juicy taste of shrimps served at the right temperature was tasty and likewise the taste of olive oil slightly blending with the meat was impeccable. It was the roasted crab mousse in shell that I did not pay much attention to. I thought crabs should be cooked quickly in order to savor its sweet succulent meat.
The Lechón Cebu Tacos was served last and that left an indelible impression on me. On top of a tortilla—a gracious serving of sliced lechon with bean mousse and mango sauce, and of course, only the Spaniard Chef Chele thought of adding sour cream—I could not however isolate the individual
flavors.
I have never eaten lechon with sour cream, ever. As I started eating without a doubt and without betraying traditions, all the flavors coming together was like eating a newly created dish!
And the third came: Arroz con Bogavante (stewed lobster paella). I am not crazy about arroz or paella dishes. Spanish rice is supposed to be a different kind of rice, different from Japanese or the long grains of Ganador or Jasmine, but with the lobster it was flavorful and even in a hotel setting it was a dish wonderfully heartening.
Solomillo a la Espanola (tenderloin with grilled manchego cheese, rioja wine jus and mushroom mashed potatoes) was served next—the fourth course. A very generous serving of tenderloin on top of some mushrooms and mashed potato in rioja wine jus was very filling, stuffing my stomach but I persisted in finishing the meal as the famous cheese of La Mancha produced an amazing flavor eaten with the meat.
Sometimes its good to wait a bit during or after deglutition because our sense of taste includes not only taste buds located in our tongue—there are countless other taste receptors located along the linings of our intestines as well. Deconstructing it to appreciate the food better. It was, by the way,
garnished with leaves of gotu kola (Centella asiatica). At this time, I was ready for the fifth and final course.
Fifth course consisted of Crema Catalana de Calabaza (Catalan pumkin crème brulee), followed by Torrija (brioche dipped in milk with anise ice cream) and Texturas de Calamansi (calamansi cake mousse, ice cream and biscuits).
I have always loved crème brulee, which reminds me of my classmates from the elementary years selling yemas wrapped in colored cellophanes. This one, which is the real deal, tastes like real pumpkin; and it was so yummy. I was thinking I could ask for another but there was the brioche that came with anise ice cream. The combination was just fantastic. Still, I took a few bites of the tasty powdery yellow calamansi cake
to close the night. Two words for the whole fifth course—savory sweet. I went home from Enye with a full stomach and was very happy.
The cover page of their menu says: La felicidad es buena comida. Indeed, Happiness is good food.
