Towards the last days of my summer term, I was invited to a dégustation, a sampling of Chef Ron’s (SIALO*) signature dishes, all worthy of a Michelin star. It turned out to be a culinary journey for me—giving me not only sustenance but also memories. Recently, I was asked to taste the same fine-tuned set of menu, this time tasting even better, although a bit modified.
It turned out to be a culinary journey for me—giving me not only sustenance but also memories. Recently, I was asked to taste the same fine-tuned set of menu, this time tasting even better, although a bit modified.
I was one of the 20 invited people— which included writers, photographers, artists and two PhDs in Chemistry—to this appreciative tasting of his food. He was assisted by another ISCAHM alumnus, Chef Vince Moore
He was assisted by another ISCAHM alumnus, Chef Vince Moore Eduria during the first degustation, and subsequently, Chef Alexander Virtudazo joined his team on the next, this time with paying guests. The whole event was supervised by Alber Durias Gabud as the night’s maître d’, who
The whole event was supervised by Alber Durias Gabud as the night’s maître d’, who came all the way from the Holiday Inn Kandooma in the Maldives.
1. Yoghurt surprise, Carrot-Mango Spheres, Smoked Mackerel/Tangigue Pate was the opening salvo, and it was like entering a forest—one can not imagine what lies beyond. Suspended in Sodium alginate, a by-product of the brown seaweed (it is partly responsible for the flexibility of the seaweeds in cold waters), the yoghurt was kind of thickened in aqueous solution forming some gel topped with a crystallized rose petal.
Yoghurt surprise, Carrot-Mango Spheres, Smoked Mackerel/Tangigue Pate
Suspended in Sodium alginate, a by-product of the brown seaweed (it is partly responsible for the flexibility of the seaweeds in cold waters), the yoghurt was kind of thickened in aqueous solution forming some gel topped with a crystallized rose petal.
This first assemblage of food was paired with a smoked mackerel in some ginger and lime concoction with cranberries. In his second attempt, the sizes became much smaller enough to fill the mouth as he has perfected the “sphere-fication” process, and instead of mackerel, this time he used Tangigue.
2. Mango coconut foam soup done in bain-marie for better consistency came in next with a slice of toasted bread topped with two scoops of mango lavished with shavings of truffles, garlic and parmesan powder. Chef Ron elucidated molecular gastronomy at this point as Chef Ron elucidated molecular gastronomy at this point as pairing of atomical structure of the ingredients.
Mango Coconut Foam Soup
3. Salad of blanched carrots, sugar beet, and oranges rolled in coffee and grated coconut. It tasted like it was roasted, but it was the coffee in the coconut that made it taste like it was roasted.
Flavor pairing was the goal. Three different portions of the beet-crop were done in different style; macerated but not dehydrated compressed with sugar, the other slice was baked, and yet another one was pickled. Plating them all in odd numbers gave it a balanced look of harmonious appearance much like in a garden.
Salad of blanched carrots, sugar beet, and oranges
I personally do not like the taste of the beetroot. I think one has to acquire the taste for it. Fortunately, the paying guests and I did not expect it after dishing out the plates, I did not see any leftovers. They must have liked it. Unlike the first degustation, the invited guests were not able to appreciate it.
4. Summer Garden Harvest of fresh herbs came after what I call the prelude salad. Based with buttermilk, dressed in chive oil, cucumber juice, pesto (made from arugula and basil) all grown by the chef himself plus three cute brussels sprouts dusted generously with moringa powder.
Some of the greens created a bitter taste (perhaps the weather is to blame causing plants to grow quickly, stop flowering and set seeds). Bolting as it is termed in botany causes the leaves like spinach, lettuce, etc. to taste unpalatable and bitter.
Summer Garden Harvest of fresh herbs
Bolting as it is termed in botany causes the leaves like spinach, lettuce, etc. to taste unpalatable and bitter. The pickled raddish included in the plate saved the taste.
5. Beetroot sorbet came next as a palate cleanser was surprisingly refreshing!
6. Now the starter was one of the stars of the show. The mildly-salted Scallops paired with sweet apple salad in pea puree and cumin foam was great. I have only been to a five- and six-course menu. This is a six-course menu times two.
Hence, this is still half way through the 12th course. The scallops during the first degustation was kind of rubbery to the bite, but during the second degustation, I think the timing, from the oven to the plating to serving has improved greatly. Pan fried Halibut instead of scallops was specially plated for a guest who was allergic to seafoods.
7. Three pieces of Italian dumplings made of potato, Gnocchi (pronounced NYOH KEE; NOH KEE) that is, but with a modernist twist came in next.
His gnocchi is like home cooking at its best, perhaps because of my familiarity with this kind of food. As a side dish, Gnocchi makes an excellent accompaniments for meat or poultry, instead Chef Ron used scallops. The potato was inserted into the scallops finished with a tasty squid ink. It looked more like a painting on a canvas that I did not want to touch it. This dish was omitted during the second degustation.
8. Cold Norwegian Salmon cured in about 24 hours in a mixture of vodka, dill, and salt, with Bloody Mary Jelly and avocado sorbet followed. I am not a salmon eater. I never liked salmon until this meal. I think this was a brilliant idea, a great blend of flavors that complimented each and every element placed on the plate. Magnificent.
Simple. Like all things magnificent, it was very simple, but the taste was like heaven. This was the surprise I did not expect to find! During the second
degustation, Chef Ron used Wild Trout. I liked the salmon better,but the halibut used was much milder compared to the salmon in terms of its saltiness.
9. Next was another palate cleansing recipe of Orange and Chili Sorbet. Yes, chili sorbet. Not for the faint of heart. But one must taste this!
11. Crab with Avocado Puree, Grapefruit Jelly and Wood Sorrel. This dish was created for the paying guests during the second degustation. The slight bitterness and tangy taste of grapefruit prepared in jelly form tasted very well with the crabs coupled with a sauce made out of fresh avocado.
12. Duck breast with spinach, pickled shitake, fresh herbs especially Wood Sorrel was finally served with much anticipation. Wood sorrel—a perennial herb belonging to the buckwheat family—gave it a peculiar sour taste resulting from the presence of oxalic acid added up to the flavor of the duck. I had the chance to ask some of the guests, and they thought it was not soft enough for the palate.
Duck breast with spinach, pickled
shitake, fresh herbs
especially Wood
Sorrel
Everybody loves Peking duck, but this was your not-so-Peking-duck dish. I believe eating duck and ducklings can be an acquired taste so that for some, its gamey taste might not be a welcome treat.
Though higher in fat than other domestic birds,| it is a good source of protein and iron. During the second degustation, the French duck was sliced diagonally, which made the meat more tender to the bite lavishly flavored with vegetable
demi-glass.
But still, the guests had the common remark about how tender it should be. Some even requested that they use a steak knife for cutting instead of the usual table knife. Maraschino cherries were included this time, which added another contracting but a unifying flavor of the meat.
13. And finally, the Lavender Gelato made flavored from another perennial herbaceous edible, Pink Sorrel in lavender espuma, with lemon zest with a
zing of blue ternate.
Clitoria ternatea— commonly known as Asian pigeonwings—is a plant species belonging to the family Fabaceae. It was the best gelato I have tasted since leaving New York City in 2010. Chemical compounds isolated from C. ternatea include triterpenoids, anthocyanins and steroids.
The flowers of this vine have the shape of the human female genitals. The plant has ascribed properties affecting female libido, perhaps due to its similar appearance to the female reproductive organ. We ended the 12-course degustation late in the evening with laughter. This dish was rather changed in the second degustation.
14. Saffron Crème Anglaise with Coffee Air. This is not your ordinary cream. The orange-yellow color of the dish owes it to the yellow powder of the crocus flower. This dish was not offered during the first degustation.
15. Modernist Mango Custard with Carbonated Calamansi Gel. Although this dish was listed during the second degustation, this was scrapped at the last minute due to the unavailability of the some of its important condiments.
With guests at the dégustation
16. Coconut Panna Cotta, Strawberry Gelato, Black Currant and Black Pepper Tuile. This is the finale of the 12-course menu offered during
the second degustation. Dehydrated chicos, coconut panna cotta and strawberries assembled much like a buffet of decadent sweets enough to fill your stomach, at least for the night.
I wanted to wait until after all the plates were dished out. As it turned out, every plate that was brought back by the waiters were all swept clean perhaps the paying guests must have been more than pleased.
*SIALO—is a privately owned restaurant by reservation(s) only owned by Ronald P. Villavelez of the famed
RE Designs located at 829 ECL Building corner F. Sotto and J.P. Laurel Streets, Kasambagan, Cebu City. For reservations, call 0925-575-2205 or email reservations@sialorestaurant.com.