Pleated empire gown in colors drawn from his “book of secrets.” He styled the look with a pair of canary yellow gloves.
PROTACIO reveals a more personal side in a recent release of an anthology.
He discovers the passion and determination that have made him the country’s most versatile fashion star.
In the air is a signature shift—modernism with its accent on strong, plain planes of color and clean-polished surfaces.
“It was not about inspiration,” he says after coming home from the Panasonic Manila Fashion Festival last April 13 at the Marquee Tent of Edsa Shangri-La, Manila where he sent out models in multiple fabric manipulation.
All his strengths are equally divided in each garment, ranging from jersey tunic to a fine-tailored utilitarian blazer paired with a sheer skirt.
“It was never based on any artwork,music, or movie. It was a collective recall of what I consider my best works for the past 10 years.”
His best works are difficult to archive, especially for those like us who have attended his shows several times and became die-hard fans. Even if the choices are laid on the table, it is impossible to pick a favorite.
Is it the embellishment?
No matter what year he is in—or waves of trends he ebbs with— Protacio can turn embroideries into eternal optimism.
He designs his own patterns and produces them in-house.
Just when you thought that all the decorations are given birth by machines, a sheer skirt with floral hand painting rushed through the stage.
The romantic and safari themes in one look are slowly developing into a new found trend.
Notice the technique of illustrating them by layers creates diffused, three-dimensional arrangements.
“Like driving a car, I strictly focus to my direction and only take precautions at every crossing. Crossing would mean the changing of trends and significant turn of events,” the Cebu-based designer describes his loyalty to his aesthetics since the day he launched an eponymous label.
If I were to dissect the creamiest of the crop, I’m here to tell you it’s the Protacio tailoring.
The modern Maria Clara rendered
in an architectural draped top with a pair of cigarette pants
He whips an ultra deep décolletage that is a modern version of Maria Clara’s pañuelo with a deconstructed architectural draping completed with a pair of cigarette pants.
It’s the same fitting applied to an over-all assembly of a utilitarian blazer he designed with an oversized lapel, gathered in the middle for an illusion of a double-breasted along with the subtle flare of the peplum.
“I wanted to play with texture and contrast. Wool was paired with tulle as I attempted to layer structural cuts on fluid gowns. A men’s jacket did not come in single fabric, but instead, I mixed brocade with a check patterned wool plus denim,” he goes on.
“Structured shapes are against fluid gowns. And my men’s line came in looser shapes to free the movement of the body.”