Photo by Doyzkie Buenaviaje
There is something about chasing the waters of the Caraga region that is soothing to the soul, like a calm before a storm. Only that the storm surge is happening inside, when your heart bursts in its seams, leaving a trail of watermarks that seek its own level.
For some time, it used to take 16 hours total just to see the fabled waterfalls of Tinuy-an in Surigao del Sur coming from Cebu: a slow boat to Butuan (which takes about 12 hours), and another bus trip to Bislig City, Surigao from Butuan (a good four hours non-stop).
But today, there is a regular flight straight to Tandag City, Surigao for just an hour (Cebu Pacific flies three times a week there) and Bislig City is only an hour away by van.
Enchanted River of Hinatuan (Photo by Doyzkie Buenaviaje)
Then and now, the magic of Tinuy-an is still the same: it’s worth all the trouble just to see the majestic waterfalls.
Described as the widest waterfalls in the entire archipelago, the Tinuy-an Falls is also home to the indigenous people, the Manobos. Some of them are now being retooled as trained guides that hold your hand in your trek up the source of the water in the solid spiral staircase, so there is no need to back out for fear of being unsafe.
The best time to come is very early morning so you can catch a glimpse of a double rainbow.
Next logical must-stop would be the Enchanted River of Hinatuan, Surigao del Sur.
There is a certain kind of blue-green sheen of the water that is sure to captivate, if not, enchant you. And when you accede to the call to jump in, the water is not too cold but just perfect for a good swim and wade (there are life vests for rent).
What makes this an enchanting encounter is the fish-feeding ritual at high noon when big fishes seem to swim out just to join the picnic sans thefrenzy.
Selfie and a swim at theEnchanted River of Hinatuan
And like Pavlov’s dogs, the 3-o’clock ritual of cleaning the river of all the trash with the music on when the big fish re-appear waiting for some feast to take place—but it’s not happening. They unceremoniously disappear into its unfathomable depth.
Final stop is the Brittania Group of Islands, which is a group of 24 small islets spaced close to one another. Facing the Pacific Ocean, one of the more famous islets is Naked Island, which is a long stretch of sandbar that vanishes during high tide (it’s also called the “Vanishing Island”).
It is such an exhilarating experience to swim under the sunset, like you are living the tropical dream. You need to hire an outrigger boat so that you can hop from one island to another and take several selfies for posterity sake and bragging rights that you are able to resist being marooned in this temptation island of desire.
Group shot at the sandbar in Naked Island
So from the ridge (the waterfalls) to the river (Enchanted River) and the reef (Britannia Group of Islands) you have gone full circle to the essential Rs of water conservation without your knowing it.
Nothing beats the feeling that for just a day, you have conquered yourself in communing with nature, leaving nothing but watermarks of memory that will last for eternity—if only all of us will be good stewards of Surigao and the rest of the world.