GODFREY LAFORTEZA III
Godfrey Laforteza III is never hung up on his feats. In fact, he prefers not to drop names of famous persons who have raved about their delightful experience of feasting on his
creations. Not that he is painfully shy—no, far from it—because he has acted on legitimate theater Manila professionally before he heard the “call of the kitchen.” It is just that he wants his work to speak for itself.
For starters, Chef Godfrey does not believe in “fusion cuisine” because, according to him, it leads to confusion. Now based in Crimson Resort and Spa, he mans the menu the way a producer mounts a monumental production—“putting it together, bit by bit, piece by piece.”
Working away from family (Godfrey’s married to theater actress Carla Guevara, and they have two kids) is quite a challenge that puts his creativity to the utmost test in coming up with the signature taste of Azure, which will be the flagship fine-dining offering of Crimson hotels in the country.
This Father’s Day, this celebrity chef finds solace in the comfort of spending quality time with his immediate family—while the world awaits his next masterpiece to be served on a plate replete with a great backstory that spins magic in every bite.
What got you started in the kitchen?
I was into performing arts before. But when I started a family, me and my wife moving to New York… as a young couple, we needed to survive… I went through a lot of jobs, like a delivery guy, a dishwasher in the kitchen. But being a delivery guy, if you don’t deliver, you don’t have the money.
One day, I just decided, after seeing the people in the kitchen… hey, I can do better! But the thing is, fifteen years ago, in New York, competition in the kitchen is very fierce, very tough.
You need to have two years of experience in the professional kitchen or in a culinary school.
So I went to a culinary school in New York, and after that I worked in a number of restaurants… worked my way up. Now I am the director and the food is my artist. The way I played it, it’s very maarte. Simple but very maarte.
How do you qualify tastes?
You got your eyes, nose, tastebuds, the stomach… and then the heart. Because after you eat, it goes to the heart, not to the brain. So when I create something I let my teammates and friends taste it first.
While working in New York as a chef, have you cooked for some famous people?
A lot! There’s Robert De Niro, who also co-owns the restaurant Nobu, Beyonce, Jay Z, P. Diddy, Barbra Streisand.
What’s the biggest compliment you got and from who?
Nakalimutan ko na. I get compliments, and I treasure them; but I don’t allow them to get into my head. I say “thank you” and move on. But I make it sure that you’ll come back… that’s my goal. I don’t want it to be a one-time, one-hit sort of thing. Siguro for that part, it’s what I learned from theater as well as from professional kitchen chefs of Nobu and Jean Georges, and Michelin-starred restaurants
in Japan—humility. They don’t dwell on the praises.
What’s your say on the onslaught of celebrity chefs in Manila appearing on TV?
They’re very rich!
Do you have anything against them… these celebrity chefs?
No. I opened up a restaurant in Manila for a year, with Anton San Diego, called The Establishment located at The Fort. That was my first time working in a big company here in the Philippines as a chef. I don’t want to say no, that I don’t want to become a celebrity chef… but now I want to cook, I want to spread what I’ve learned, teach people and let the people try what I’ve learned from outside. Sabi ko nga ‘eh, let the food speak for itself. Four years ago, I didn’t want to work in Cebu because Cebu is my happy place. Every time I go home from abroad, I always come here for vacation… not work. Eh, last year andito na ako! So that’s why I cannot really have my last say. You never know.
So, what’s cooking?
I love cooking! And now we are branding Azure. When my boss told me the vision and concept of Azure… immediately, in 10 minutes, I said I will sign the contract. Yes, that fast. Because they are
an independent hotel, they are very supportive, and he lets me do what I want. Branding Azure, sa awa ng Diyos, in eight months, people are happy.
Tell us about the process of creating another menu.
The good thing is there’s not too much pressure. Well, I don’t want to say it’s a good thing, but with the owners and the boss, I told them I was delayed. I need to be motivated. With food, you only have one chance. In the play “Rent,” there’s this song called “No Day But Today.” I always think about that.
So tell us about it?
You know, our menu is so small, but I want it to be concentrated. Like dish by dish… it should be like a bag, like a Chanel. Pagpunta mo sa Chanel pare-pareho lang lahat pero different skin. Pag hinawakan mo ay iba. That’s what I would like to achieve… for people to come and keep coming back.
What are your culinary Dos and Don’ts?
If you look at my clock you’ll see that it’s 30 minutes advance from you guys—all chefs in my kitchen follow my clock. So I need to be here by 9:30 a.m., and by 10 everybody is here. It is highly important for me—you need to be on time. That’s also a do. If you’re not confident, don’t open your curtain. I’d rather say sorry and give you back your money. I’ll even pay your cab going back to the city. But I will not open my kitchen because I am not ready. Kasi for karamihan ng Pilipino eh… okey na yan—they will just settle. I will never settle. That’s what I’ve learned in a Japanese kitchen.
What food do you want to work on?
Fugu, the Japanese blowfish.
It’s the one wherein you’d need a license, or else you cannot use it. It’s a poisonous fish. I want to try that! I want to be adventurous. I
also want to try crocodile meat.
What can you say about these reality TV shows about chefs?
I’ts good because people learn how to eat. You cannot pretend anymore… whereas before it was only “Wok With Yan” and there’s
also Julia Child. You cannot BS anymore. Some would say… with pasta, sabi ni Gordon Ramsay it should be cooked like this, bakit
iniba mo, niloloko mo ba ako? So it’s good. It keeps us on our toes, na hindi pwedeng magloko.
Because the customer knows na how to eat, unlike before.
Who are your idol chefs?
Of course, my mentor Nobu. And there’s Seiji Yamamoto of RyuGin, the number one Japanese chef in the world. Also, Paul Bocuse, the father of French cuisine.
A good chef—what’s sets him apart?
The passion, kasi marami namang marunong magluto ng adobo… pero makikita mo ‘yun sa pagkain. You can not lie anymore because once you plate,
everything is there. You always go back to the human senses. You would feel it—bakit ang pangit ng plating or bakit ang dumi ng plato? I guess it’s the heart— a good chef puts his heart into his work, not just in the lasa, but the overall experience.
Which Filipino food you would promote around the world as your own, and how would you make it?
Kare-Kare. I would mix it with an Indonesian peanut sauce.
How much do you miss theater? When was your last performance?
In 2000, “The Little Mermaid” with my wife (Carla Guevarra) at the Meralco Theatre with Trumpets
under Audie Gemora. I was part of the ensemble and the dancer while my wife was Princess Sapphire. That was the last big show I did before I left Manila. I miss theater. I miss it a lot!
How do you deal with it?
Well, now I am the director as well as the producer and the food is my art. But, given a chance, every time I go home… give me an excerpt… I just have no time. But I am enjoying watching people, I still watch theater. I watch my wife’s performances and I need to. I have to watch theater to draw in inspiration, the light, the staging—that’s how you put up a play. It’s art. There’s a big culinary thing in Manila and unfortunately I cannot go because I am here. Though I
decided to go to Madrid, Spain three weeks ago—
I ate, looked at some art… have myself inspired. We just had a photoshoot with Raymund Isaac for our website and he goes “Chef, anong gagawin natin?”
So I researched and looked at my photos and there… nakita ko ‘yung inspiration, from plating to food and concept… (Antoni) Gaudi. Everything will be launched this June.
What is your biggest challenge?
Siguro my challenge is that I am a FIlipino but I have international standards. In the US, Europe, or in any Michelin star restaurant… my staff here never even had the chance to go to a five-star restaurant, never travelled to Manila. So my challenge is to teach them from my standard of ten. I need to go back to one to teach them of my ten. You just don’t cook, you teach, you mentor… I need for them to absorb na this is what we want. To mentor and to motivate people is a challenge. You’re paying them ten dollars here… but they can always work at a fastfood chain and receive the same amount of pay, right? How you keep themhere, to enjoy what they’re doing and not to think about the money anymore.
Where do you draw your inspiration?
Through travels, theater, music, people, nature, positive people… I call and talk to my kids and family, too.
Do you envision your own place someday?
None as of now. You know why? Because I am fortunate to be part of Crimson, and because they said this is going to be my restaurant. They told me: “Godfrey, put up a restaurant and we are branding
it as Azure.” So this is the restaurant. Welcome to my home!
