EVEN as the frenzy builds up on the streets for this Saturday’s religious procession and the bacchanalia on Sunday, today appears to be the best time to take in some choice sights (and quite a few bites) that even the Sinulog old-timer—heck even most Cebuano natives—have probably never heard of.
Explore these now, you’ll thank me later.
ABASERIA
Probably the city’s best-kept dining secret, Abaseria is in fact a longtimer, hidden in plain sight within a residential area in Mabolo. Spanish for sundry shop (or sari-sari store), its ever nook is filled with knick-knacks and culinary delicacies from across the country: bottled goods from Trappist monks, gourmet fish roe, wood and porcelain wind chimes, carvings from
the North, and several interesting items du jour (this season, roosters made of patchwork cloth).
Abaseria
The specialties of the house include their baked crispy pork, the bangus belly, Indo chicken, and the adobong talong. Try also the bowl of monggos (mung bean soup cooked with coconut milk) or native chicken tinola (a clear soup). Although not on the menu, ask Marivic or Joy to serve their ginamos (tiny fermented fish in spiced vinegar), the perfect dipping sauce for the fried dishes or the plate of steamed vegetables.
(39-B Pres. Roxas St. corner Cong. Noel St., Villa Aurora Subdivision, Kasambagan, call 234-4160)
BASILICA DEL STO. NIÑO LIBRARY
Have you ever stared at the magnificent altar of the Basilica and wondered what lies behind it? That mysterious space, in fact, houses a medium-sized library that contains antiquated tomes collected by the Augustinian priests, custodians of the Sto. Niño. A giant eagle spreads across the wall on the opposite side of the one that divides the cavernous church from this private space, a symbol of the religious order.
The library, accessible by a winding staircase behind the living quarters of the priests (the convento) is open to the public by appointment, and is an interesting sidelight of the Basilica, whose other facets are undoubtedly swarmed by this time.
(Basilica del Santo Niño, Osmeña Boulevard, call 255-6697 www.basilicasantonino.org.ph )
JESUIT HOUSE OF 1730
Again, another amazing discovery hidden within plain sight. The 280-year-old house has remained concealed in a busy district of old Cebu, a stone’s throw from two other more popular heritage homes simply because it still stands inside a working warehouse.
Jesuit House of 1730
The Jesuit House of 1730 is the oldest dated house in the country, the main structure almost untouched through several wars because of a series of fortuitous coincidences, its Chinese-built earthquake-proofing columns and original iron window grills fastened without welding and built in the time of the Titanic among the architectural highlights of an amazing home whose stories continue to be unearthed.
Now a privately-owned museum run by Jimmy Sy, the present owner, it still is surrounded by a working warehouse, which makes the experience a tad trippier. Oh, yes, ask about the story of the massacre of 7 priests and the crucifix the murderer carved on the wall that exists until today.
(Museo Parian sa Sugbo, 26 Zulueta Street, Parian, 255-5408)
INIGO’S
Iñigo
Big, bad humba! The braised pork dish is a Cebuano signature, and every carinderia has its own version of the dish ranging from Chinese-style with the black beans or the Filipino version that’s dark with soy sauce and caramelized sweetness. I dare say, if I may, that I’ve found the best one, leaning towards the latter.
Iñigo’s Humba
Inigo’s opened a week ago but has drawn a steady stream of customers from sheer word of mouth, that from the looks of it, is quite good. As good as the rest of their menu: the lenggua is tender, excellently-seasoned and gets its edge from the olives, their yellow chicken curry spot on spicy, and an interesting take on kare-kare that tastes like an exotic version of balbacua. I am personally impressed that Goodjay and Franklin Veloso serve real sukang tuba in their restaurant. It is details like this that truly matter, and set new dining destinations apart.
Frankie’s platter
(Inigo’s is along Don Mariano Cui street at the Capitol Area, right next to Yakski Barbecue)
